I purchased this to use on an older Craftsman 14 in bandsaw, slight modifications had to be made, but it fits great, and have been using it now for a couple years.

I used this riser block on a 14 inch Delta, this dowel pins on the riser do not match the deltas, I pulled all of the pins both from the riser block and the band saw casting. Used some Vise grips and a screwdriver to pry with, pins came out pretty easy. Removed the paint from the top and bottom of the riser block and then checked the trueness of the block with a dial indicator, all was good. I elected to forgo using any dowel pins for alignment, my thinking is, you put the thing together see how it works and go from there. I did use care in aligning the best I could by eye and a few measurements. Tracked and works like a champ from the get-go. I really tightened the bolt that holds the riser block and the castings together, I don't think anything is going to move, if it does I have some ideas on have to improve on that problem in the future.

Actual riser is great. Works exactly as intended, weird sizing on the bolt but other than that easy install. Included blade is probably the worst blade I've ever seen. Not a huge deal since I didn't expect a blade to be included.

Bought this kit to use on my Porter Cable 14" bandsaw. Like most other brands, a little modification to the dowel pin location is needed on the block and upper casting of the saw. Also had to drill out the upper blade guide assembly to accomendate to 7/8" guide post. The main body guide has no problem as it is already 7/8". Very pleased with this Kit.

Went together just fine for the most part with help from my son. The only real issue was that the hex head on the 5/8 bolt and the nut were just slightly too large for my SAE wrenches (1" and 7/8"). I had to grind the head on the bolt and the nut down to size. Just a few seconds on each face did the trick. I discovered the upper wheel was off plane with the lower wheel but I shimmed the block with paper card stock (the demo video uses blue paint tape) and it lines up and tracks perfectly now. If you are concerned about too much tension affecting your saw, get Timberwolf blades since they are excellent and designed for low tension use.

I used this extension block kit on my old harbor freight bandsaw. I had to drill a few new holes to align the block pins but that was easy. Now I can resaw almost 11.5" think material on my bandsaw.If you are handy and have some basic machining skills, this is a great investment to upgrade an older bandsaw.

Had to alter a few things, but it works well on my 14" craftsman saw

I had to redrill the holes, and elongate them. I used some pure silicone caulk on the mating surfaces to give it some adhesion. I tightened the bolt as tight as I could get it. I don’t believe I could get anymore out of it, and I’m not worried about it coming apart. It’s 100% not moving.The extension guard doesn’t work as it is, and is a pain to get it to work well. I’ll figure out something to get a full extension guard. I added a new Cobra spring by Carter, a tension relief arm by Carter to remove the tension from the pulleys when not in use. The blade guard is metal, so make sure it doesn’t touch at all before turning it on. I had to flare mine out a little. Maybe I’ll find one that’s been made of wood later on.I have Carter guides already so that’s a plus. I also bought (2) types of blade tension devices. Remarkably, they both read or react similarly when proper blade tension is achieved (15,000). Both are pretty cool how they do the job. One is fancy for about $80, the other is basic for $40. Both do the same, and both react or show the tension at the same point. Therefore, I know it’s correct. And, it took a lot more tension than I expected. Don’t use the gauge on your saw. It’s wrong. Get a tension device. Do it right. Your resawing will be easier. And buy good blades.So essentially I rebuilt my band saw for $500! I use a 3/8” 3 TPI Carter blade. I also purchased some nice Olsen blades. The Carter blades are better using a 3/8” blade. I’m able to resaw red oak up to 12”, straight against the fence, 1/8” thick. Straight. Run it through the planer on top of a board to get it down to a veneer thickness.All in all, it works. A new saw I would want (Harvey) is $2500 + shipping & tax. Or $3100. So $500 is a decent trade off. I’d like to see if I can find another motor at 1.5 hp to replace the 1hp. It’ll help a lot going through tall hard wood. We’ll see.Thanks. Hope this helps you.

The kit seems very well done unfortunatelly it did not fit my band saw Craftex Ct105N.

Product worked on well on Delta 28-245C 14” band saw. As others have mentioned, the pins didn’t line up. I pulled out existing pins and put block on and tightened the bolt. It shouldn’t move with day to day use but will be careful if it needs to be moved.Product was packed well with all pieces needed. Blade it came with was okay, purchased thicker blade for re sawing.Good option for enhancing current band saw than buying a new one.

Really impressed about this item,well made,well packed,very happy to receive it. I used it to convert my Porter Cable 14 inch band saw from 6 inch resaw ,to near double that,,,. Not an out of the box fit,,but very easy to convert.A few hours later,and I save over $600 bucks on the next size up bandsaw,worth the investment. Salute to SHOP FOX for the well engineered product. PORTER Cable sure fell asleep @ the wheel on their products.

I was kind of skeptical of how or if this would work, if it was going to be strong enough and if the blade alignment would even work correctly. To my surprise it worked very well. It fit perfectly, even the alignment of the wheels didn't change. It has given me 12-1/2" of clearance between the bottom of the blade guard and the table.The materials, workmanship, and packing were of a high quality and all the parts fit as expected. I am very happy with it and would recommend it to anyone planning to put it on a ShopFox 1706 band saw.I have resawn several small logs with it and the results have been very good. I have had more trouble getting a blade that has been welded properly than I had with the riser.

There it was, unpacked and in perfect condition, complete with everything on the list and an Instruction Manual on how to install it.How to install the upgrade on a 32 year old cast iron framed AllTrade made in Taiwan 14 inch bandsaw.Of course there were a few niggling things like the holes in the extension did not quite match the pin holes on my saw. When I got my saw apart I noted that the upper and lower castings were secured by the usual honkin' big bolt and the alignment was done with a couple of split pins driven through the upper and lower flanges to prevent rotation. It also was evident the pin holes were drilled after the assembly of the upper and lower pieces because the holes were bored at an angle from the open side and did not transit the meeting of the two parts at right angles. Separation needed to punch them out.They were off by about two or three inches - so easy peasy. Step one, acquire a piece of nice MDF a half inch think, a piece of hardwood about 2 inches thick, a micrometer, a precision machinists square, a center punch, a 6mm drill bit, and a few clamps and stuff like that.Then survey the holes on the new piece and mark the distance between them and each end and side.Cut the MDF to an exact size of the end of the riser block and lay it out, marking the position of the two holes.Race to the drill press and bore two vertical and appropriately positioned holes. Try same for fit on the riser block.When the fit is perfect, use the mdf as a template on the drill press to bore the same two holes in the much thicker piece of hardwood.Clamp the hardwood to the cast iron, then use the drill from the drill press now mounted in my big Makita hammer drill set to 'smooth running please' and bore two holes in the cast iron using the built in depth stop to achieve sufficient depth of hole.Repeat process for lower iron piece.As an aside I first measured the saw for how coplanar the wheels were (out by a half inch) and I adjusted the position of the reinstalled top end by enough to align the wheels properly.Use the supplied bolts and new pins for the bottom end and reassemble the frame.It helps to have a drill press, a two pound bronze sledgehammer, a table saw, and an assortment of precision measuring and metal working stuff like hacksaws, files, a grinder and some old bolts to repurpose as pins, the usual stuff handy in the well equipped home workshop.before doing a refurbish on older stuff where the factory is long gone.The wheels now are co-planar, it has a new set of trunnions (the ones for a Rigid 14 inch fitted well and are much beefier than the original) a new lower guide setup, ceramic wheel blade backers, and cool blocks to guide the blade.So mu hundred dollar clunker bandsaw is now functionally equivalent to a new 14 inch by 12 inch resaw setup selling at around a thousand.One star off for the labor and hassle factor, then right back on for the fun factor of making it fit anyway..