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Your cart is empty. 30A High Current 12V Contactor relay Switch DC power Switching Control Board electrical relay switches
Input: DC 12V (relay powered)
Output: 30A single channel relay of 4 terminal shunt
Control current ：max 30A
Maximum control voltage：250V
coil current:60MA
packing including：
1x 12V relay Switch
Sir
Reviewed in the United States on February 22, 2024
I like that it works well
Just me
Reviewed in the United States on April 24, 2024
I wanted some high-amperage lights on my electric scooter lighting circuit, but the standard lighting controller could not handle the current. So I wired the relay in so that the 12V would receive power when the standard lights turned on, which would trigger the relay and activate the main lights.The relay is probably not 40 amps, but it works with the 10 amps I’m putting through it. It’s NC (normally closed) so when no power is applied, it’s closed.
ECOBOB
Reviewed in the United States on September 30, 2023
I am a former electrical contractor used to installing substantially larger relays and contactors for controlling 120v loads. Visualizing this piece of equipment in comparison to previous equipment made me hesitant to use this relay to control a 120v water heater in my camper. I tested it before installing it, then tested on a 45 day road trip. It has operated flawlessly. I'm still amazed and would buy it again.
A. Bonnell
Reviewed in the United States on August 12, 2023
I deducted one star because there isn't any sort of documentation with this relay. I've used it multiple times so I've figured it out pretty well by now, but here's some lessons I've learned so you don't make the same mistakes.1) This is an SPST-NO relay. The four output terminals make it seem like a DPST, but really there's just two screws per output. Numbering the screws 1-4, this means that screws 1&2 are shorted together and screws 3&4 are shorted together. Switching occurs between the 1/2 pair and the 3/4 pair.2) The board includes an RC snubber for the relay coil. Red wire is positive, black wire is negative. DO NOT WIRE IT BACKWARDS. Wiring it backwards reverse polarizes the snubber and the capacitor promptly blows up. The relay still works if you do this, but there will be high voltage spikes on the low power side when switching the coil on and off.3) There is NOT a snubber circuit on the output. Switching a heavily inductive load will destroy the relay contacts very quickly. I use two of the output screws for the load and the other two for an RC snubber to protect the relay.4) The relay itself may be able to handle 30amps, but the traces on the circuit board probably won't. I treat it as a 10amp (continuous) relay and have had no issues with heat production on the board.Once I understood knew those quirks, this little relay has worked perfectly for whatever I need it for.
nh19926
Reviewed in the United States on April 1, 2023
Worked fine out of the box. Small / compact. Wish the screw terminals were bigger to support a standard lug. On this unit I had to use the smaller lugs (which I had on hand). Because i used this as an interface with my Honeywell Vista 20P, trigger 17 (Programmable Output) for my alarm siren / bell / accessories.... I needed a reply that did not have an optical sensor.... just a straight contact to the relay and low current consumption rating on the coil.The Vista 20P has limited output for trigger 17 (limit to max 100ma).... so I also removed one leg of the small led on the board to not light up. You can add a led on the output of the relay contact if you really need a led to show you when the relay is activated. This saved about 5 ma which reduced my limit on trigger 17 output.What is nice about this is the fact I did not have to spend another $100 bucks for a honeywell add-on power supply that only supported 1.5 Amps, and a honeywell relay board. By connecting the output of trigger 17 to this relay directly, then using a separate battery and power supply to support the Wiper/NO contact loads on the output side.... I am able to run up to 30 Amps if desired .... but really only using about 5 amps at this time for everything.This relay board also has a nice large value capacitor across the coil, and I recall a diode as well... This helps with any spikes from the coil and/or reverse current when the relay disengages.... the spike can effect sensitive item (chips). I had no problems with this replay on my Vista 20P board. I made a plex-glass board for 2 of these relays which fits exactly into the slotted spaces in the Vista 20P box, and mounts perfectly.
Rubix
Reviewed in the United States on December 4, 2022
using this along with a current sensing switch to turn on my vacuum along with the table saw.
Eric Decker
Reviewed in Canada on December 3, 2020
These relays are routinely hooked up to motion sensors which activate the relay to fire banks of lighting in corridors of large buildings.
Bernie
Reviewed in the United States on June 13, 2019
Easy to set up and use. Came with a nice pigtail for the 12 volt supply line. I'm using it to control 12 volt/5 amps as well and it works perfect. Nice terminals that are a good size.
Marc L.
Reviewed in Canada on May 3, 2019
Bonne qualité et bon prix
Customer
Reviewed in Canada on November 7, 2019
Comes very well packaged and works like a charm. Excellent product!
Angelov Angel
Reviewed in Canada on September 3, 2018
Thank you!
Evan
Reviewed in Canada on January 5, 2018
Very decent qulity. Has fees back protection from electrical capacitance that bulds up in the coil ( good for electronics with ICs).Terminals also very decent .
Kristen Bushey
Reviewed in the United States on November 17, 2017
I have this hooked to a float switch to turn off power to my aquarium water pump if water gets too high in my overflow tank. Make sure you don't have any plugs plugged into the wall before continuing to read the following tips which might be helpful... The red and black wires you see in the product picture hook to your 12 volt power adapter (purchased separately). If you have an old 12 volt power adapter that came with your Walkman or portal CD player...just use that : - ) The 12 volt power adapter you have has two wires...just cut one of them in half (I dont think it matters which one) and connect back together with your float switch wires. So now your float switch breaks 12 volt connection to this relay switch which in return breaks connection to the 120 volt wire(s) you have screwed into the 4 screw terminals you see in the product picture. The two left screw terminals are marked with K0 and the other two right screw terminals are marked with K1 (I only needed to use two screw terminals for my application). Finally, do the same thing you did above and just take the black wire coming from your 120 volt wire (whatever appliance, light, or equipment your trying to turn on/off with this relay switch) and cut in half, stick one side into 1st screw (K0) and the other side into the 3rd screw (K1). Wala! If float switch interrupts 12 volt power, the relay switch interrupts the 120 volt power. I bought a small plastic junction box to contain the wires and house this relay switch and cut the female end off of an old extension cord to connect my 120 volt aquarium pump..
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