Used it to connect antennas to CB's. Pretty straightforward

I mean, this is coax. As long as you know what to do with it, it's going to work out perfectly. Showed up on time and in good shape. Couldn't have asked for a better outcome.

This coaxial cable is actually pretty decent cable for what it is! Read on for further details. I'm a licensed Amateur Radio operator. For use on frequencies of 30 MHz, or say the 10 meter Amateur Radio band, it is important to keep the antenna's VSWR, directly at the antenna itself, down as low as possible, as you would do for any antenna for any frequency band. The lower the VSWR is, the better. This will allow the cable to see less additional attenuation (losses), that is caused by VSWR by its nature, and is added to the attenuation of the cable. This will also allow you to use a bit more RF power applied to the cable, too. This cable can realistically handle up to a maximum of 350 watts of RF on a continuous-duty basis, using AM, FM, digital voice mode, RTTY, FT8, FSK, and other 100% duty-cycle digital modes, and assuming an ideal 1.0:1 VSWR, at the antenna itself (load). This cable can realistically handle up to 700 watts of RF with a 50% duty-cycle, for CW and for processed or compressesed and higher fidelity audio SSB modes. This cable can realistically handle 1.2 KW with a 10% duty-cycle on SSB mode (no processing, no compression and no high fidelity audio), and it can realistically handle 1.0 KW with a 20% duty-cycle on SSB mode (with light processing or compression, and no high fidelity audio), again all assuming an ideal 1.0:1 VSWR at the antenna itself (load). The RF power applied to the cable needs to be reduced when the VSWR is above the ideal 1.0:1 mark. For example, if the VSWR is 2.0:1, the maximum RF power that is safe to apply to the cable becomes 300 watts on a continuous-duty basis, 600 watts using CW and SSB with a 50% duty-cycle, and so on. This is all very important information to know to prevent overheating the cable, and to minimize the attenuation (losses) of the cable caused by heat and VSWR. Overheating the cable leads to the melting of the center conductor dielectric, and will cause short circuiting to occur between the center conductor and the sheild. Keep the cable cool! That is true of any coaxial cable. Keep them cool! The average attenuation of this cable is about 2.0 dB per 100 feet of length at 30 MHz. The attenuation gets even higher using higher frequencies. For use on 10 meters, ideally this cable should be no longer than 50 feet in its overall total length, and this also includes the lengths of all of the necessary jumpers used to connect meters and amplifiers together with the antenna and the transceiver. This will provide the least amount of overall attenuation, and this will maximize the effectiveness, the efficiency and the overall performance of the antenna system and this cable used with it. Sure, you can use say 100 feet of this cable if you can tolerate a little bit less RF power reaching the antenna from the transmitter, and if you can tolerate having a little bit less receiver sensitivity in the receiver, too. This isn't always a bad thing, and never be discouraged by that, either. Just do what best works for your particular operating situation and run with it. Being on the air is always better than not being on the air! Due to the mixing of dissimilar metals in the double shielded cable (mixing of an aluminum foil shield with a tinned copper braided shield), this cable is not recommended to be used with 10 meter HF repeater systems, or to be used with VHF or with UHF repeater systems. This is due to the eventual oxidizing of the metals, which will eventually cause IMD and harmonics that cause interference and splatter, in the common mode current form, that will be developed on the outside surfaces of the outermost shielding of the cable. Using a bunch of ferrite beads at both ends of the cable is recommended to fight against any possible common mode currents, but only in certain and in very stubborn operating conditions. For the most part, you won't necessarily need to do that with this cable, though. This cable also worked very well in most vehicle installations, due to its ability to fight well against external noise and interference caused from the vehicle itself, using the double shielding of this cable. This cable is likely not rated to be used for direct burial systems, so don't directly bury it in the ground. Put this cable in conduit for underground use. This cable holds up fairly well to the outdoor weather and against the sunlight. As with any coaxial cable, you should at least change it out with a new one about every 3 to 5 years or so, to maintain optimum effectiveness and efficiency. Again, this is a pretty decent coaxial cable for what it is, and I use it and I recommend it over using the non-double shielded types in the RG-8X (mini 8X) variety of size. You just have to know the limitations of any coaxial cable in order to get the optimal performance and efficiency from them, that's all. This cable is like using a smaller diameter version and a less efficient version of LMR 400 flexible coaxial cable. This cable is actually a pretty decent coaxial cable for what it is. I cannot stress that fact enough. I like it a lot better, and I prefer it over using the non-double shielded types. The center conductor is made of tinned copper stranded wire and the outer braided shield is made of tinned copper wire strands. That said, it's very easy to solder connectors to this cable for the most reliable electrical connections, and to achieve the greatest amount of longevity from those soldered connections. The cable itself is also very flexible, too. Though this is an inexpensive coaxial cable, it's still good stuff to use anyway. For the cost of this cable, it's a good quality cable. Happy hamming or happy CBing, whichever the case may be. Buy this cable and enjoy your radio hobby! Best regards.

Basic cable at a good price, seams well made. Would buy again!

The length came in a coil, obviously, rather than on a spool. I haven’t used it yet, but it is what I expected.

I haven’t tested it yet, but pulling it out of the bag, the jacketing is that really cheap Chinesium plastic that smells like it’s going to give you cancer. It’s that same weird chemical smell that permeates Harbor Freight. Because the jacketing is cheap material, it’s not as supple as a stranded cable should be. It just feels….cheap. I’m only planning on using this to make jumpers and hook an antenna to a rotator, so it should be fine. I’ll just have to keep an eye on it to monitor how it’s degrading in the sun.

I have used RG8X coaxial before for my CB/Ham radio needs.The only thing I saw in this cable that was different from the others that I have used was the center conductor in this cable is stranded instead of solid core. Not sure how this will hold up over time, but we shall try it out and see. I can say that it makes this coaxial cable a lot more flexible than the others that I have used over the years.