MOOG K8695T Front Lower Suspension Ball Joint for Ford F-150

Did not fit my 1999 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0 L rear wheel drive

Went to put in after taking truck all apart and it slid in by hand. If you have replaced ball joints may need the oversized version

Fits perfectly and installed well with a ball joint press. I like the way the grease seal was designed.

Lo use en un Explorer 99

Moog best aftermarket suspension parts

Such a worth while job on my F150. Way better steering, less play/slack, no more squeaking.Rent the C-clamp press kit from ORielly or Autozone etc for free to make life way easier and get alignment done after. Might as well do upper control arm/ball joint and steering links whilst you're down there. I used a cheap grease gun to add more grease and fill the boot, but they come partly greased anyway.

This is a great buy and super deal. Moog ball joints are very well made. Easy to install with grease nipples. They fit my ford Sport trac 2005 perfectly.

I saved so much money buying these and doing it myself. The dealer quoted me over $2000 to do all my tie rod ends, ball joints, and idler arm. This was a 2001 F-150 that I purchased for about $3800 with I spent about $400 on Amazon and spent about 6 hours doing it. It was honestly pretty tough but you can rent the proper tools to make it easier. If anyone wants to know more about doing it, be sure to check out YouTube... It helped me a ton. I have used Moog on my whole front end now and have put about 10k on it with no issues yet.

An excellent quality Moog ball joint with a new style grease boot that does not extend all the way up the shaft. Installed and worked flawlessly.

Perfect fit,high quality !

I purchased a pair of these lower ball joints for a 2000 Ford F-150 pick up truck with 150,000 miles. The OEM joints were sealed and not serviceable but after all those years and miles, the boots were ripped and flaking off and whatever lubricant in the joint was all dried up to the consistency of wax. The old joints had at least 1/8 inch of slop and play. These new Moog ball joints were a perfect fit and tightened up my front end nicely. I like that these replacement joints are greasable and that should ensure a longer life (provided you actually put in a squirt or two of grease at each oil change).Start the job by applying a liberal amount of penetrating oil to the threads and around the base of the ball joint. Let that soak in for at least a few hours, overnight is even better if you can. I did the whole job on the vehicle and since I have a 2WD truck, I didn't have to disconnect the tie rod end. I used a hefty Craftsman two-jaw gear puller (PN: 9_46903) to pop the stud of the old ball joint out of the steering knuckle. You will then need to use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring, although in my case there was enough clearance that you could just use a screwdriver the pry it out. I used a ball joint press from OTC PN: 7249 plus the Astro Pneumatic PN: 7868 Ball Joint Adapter Set to press out the old joint and press in the new one. You will need to take a little time to figure out which adapters are used for removal and installation. A smaller adapter is used to push out the old joint (inside the 'hole' of the control arm) and a larger adapter is used to install the new one (rides on the flange of the new ball joint).People who bend their ball joint presses when removing the old ball joints are probably doing it wrong. The trick is to crank on the screw hard enough to just under the point where you think you might damage it, then whack the hex end of the ball joint press screw with a hammer. You should hear the metal "sing" or ring like a bell because the whole mess is under a lot of stress. The shock waves that propagate through the steel is what ‘breaks’ the joint free. After a couple of more whacks you may hear a thunk as the joint starts to give or you will notice that you can crank in some torque on the ball joint press screw. Repeat this process until you can just turn the wrench and push out the old joint.Select the larger adapter and press in the new ball joint. The new ones go in much easier than the old ones come out. Using snap ring pliers install the new snap ring, then install the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle and torque the castellated nut to the value in the instructions and install the new cotter pin. When installing the grease fitting into the ball joint DO NOT attempt to bottom out the hex flats of the fitting. You will snap it off. (See other negative comments from people who tried to do that.) The threads appear to be tapered like a pipe thread so you can work it in and out and get it a little deeper, but do not try to crank all the way in if it doesn't seem to want to go.A couple of tricks I learned along the way. To help get clearance to install the stud of the new ball joint into the steering knuckle without disconnecting the brake caliper or the tie-rod end I did a few things. First, I drove the front wheels of the truck up on ramps. I then used a jack under the shock mounting point on the lower control arm to lift the wheel free of the ramp and then put jack stands under the frame. I removed the wheel then proceeded with the job. The idea is to use the truck’s weight to compress the spring to give you the clearance. When you use a jack to support the control arm, make sure no part of your body is in a crush zone should the jack fail. You could use a jack stand to support the lower control arm if you have a floor jack with enough throw. The reason for having the other wheel on the ramp is to compress the other side as well so the stabilizer bar (sway bar) doesn’t work against you by trying to extend the suspension. The last trick I found was that when trying to maneuver the new ball joint stud into the steering knuckle, it helps if you push down on the upper control arm. If you have a 4WD truck, all bets are off. You have to pull the tie-rod end because you have to pull the drive axle out. My tie rod end nut and threads were all rusty so I was not interested in testing my luck and having to replace tie-rod ends as well as ball joints.

Wish I would of got these from the start! It would of saved me quite a bit of money and time instead of messing around with Motorcraft. I thought I would initially replace everything with Motorcraft because i am very picky about what goes on my vehicles, but after destroying two MC ball joints, I tried Moog and man what a difference! The lip on the Motorcraft ones are half the thickness of these making install much easier and eliminating the chance of destroying them with a press. I thought I was doing something wrong but I dont't think so because I didnt have any issue pressing these. The lip on the Motorcraft ones were folding up under too much HAND pressure while pressing. The cup size didn't make a difference. I had a cup under the lip as close to the center of the joint as possible, pressing slow and very carefully and the lip still folded and tore...reminded me of cheap China metals. This one on the other hand, no problems whatsoever, same cup size and position on the lip and it pressed in great. The only regret I have is not buying these in the first place. After this, the rest of the suspension and steering parts in my project were replaced with Moog.

got it last week and finally took some time to install it. First off, its very solid look and feel leaves me feeling very comfortable as to its quality. It appeared have just a tiny bit of grease already which they probably put more as a protective layer while its being stored. I can't stand that OEM parts do not have grease fittings, but this one does. If replacing one of these is something you feel your capable of doing, BIG SAVINGS, it was about $30 for a quality ball joint as apposed to well over $100-200 to a shop (though depending on what you disconnect to get to it, you made need to get an alignment [~$100], not sure if shop price includes that). Though the job did take like 4-5 hrs as I never have done this before and ball joint press I rented did not have the size adapters I needed (if it had, could have been done in less then 2 hrs). But, back to review, my original ball joint was still functioning but making noise as i had a crack in the boot and all the grease was oozing out of it. After changing it I noticed the ride was more smooth. When comparing the two pieces (old and new) side by side, the boot on the Moog is definately more beefy than the original. (NOTE: DO NOT FORGET TO PUT GREASE AFTER INSTALLING)I would (and already have) recommend this product to anyone who needs it.