Dorman 911-902 Engine Intake Manifold Runner Control Valve Compatible with Select Chrysler / Dodge / Jeep Models

Salió defectuoso

I installed this item on a 2009 Jeep Patriot a week ago and is working very well. It was easy to install, took less than 30 minutes. it immediately eliminated the scanner code P2004 which was causing the check engine light to go on. I am very pleased with this order, it was received on time and within two days of ordering.

Good as expected

This did not fix my issue. Codes were coming up, and I removed the intake manifold and cleaned it out. Replaced the runner control with this and I got more codes. Apparently there is a coding issue with this aftermarket replacement. I would stick with OEM for stuff like this.

Could be better

Part fit and worked good .

My 07 Caliber was giving me a P2004 code and I drove it like that for years. I finally got the ambition to fix it so I bought this part here instead of the dealer for almost half the cost. It arrived in about 3 days and took about 15 minutes to swap it out. Used my code reader to clear the code and no light for a week now. Great product and cheap fix!

My 2008 Dodge Avenger was giving me a P2017 error code and the car was idling funny. So far this fixed my issue and the installation took me 15-20 minutes!TOOLS NEEDED:- 3/8in or 1/4in ratchet- small extension for ratchet- 10mm socket (yes, I tried SAE but they didn't fit properly)- 9mm socket- medium length flat head screwdriverMY INSTALL STEPS:PREP AREA (9mm with extension)- Pull off the vacuum hose next to the intake hose on the air filter housing and push that back.- Take off the intake hose from the air filter housing using the 9mm socket. Move that far left and let the engine or radiator cap hold it back.- Either remove the air flow sensor from the filter housing or unplug it from the harness.- Remove the lid for the air filter housing and put that off to the side.- At the runner control valve unclip the tab on the connected wiring harness and then pull off the harness. You might have to pry the screwdriver at the top of the connection point to get it going. After that it slides right off.REMOVE RCV: (note - I used the filter housing top as a screw holder. to each his own)- Front top screw and bottom screw uses a 10mm socket. Use that extension to get them out and keep a hand under it so you don't drop the screw (it happened to me and I spent almost 10 minutes trying to fish it out)- The back top screw using a 9mm socket. I wedged the socket and extension between the harness and hose in that area and got it out.- After screws are removed put out the RVCAt this point, and before you buy a new RVC, you can spray some WD-40 and turn the center pin with pliers, let it sit for a while and then flush out the WD-40 with carb/choke cleaner. If you decided to reinstall the stock one to see if that fixed your problem and your code and idle clears out then you just spent 8 bucks to fix your car. If you bought a new RCV then proceed on.INSTALL RCV:- The center pin is flat and need to line up with the valve in the intake manifold. I slowly put in the new RCV above the opening, rotated it clockwise (top to back) until the flat pin matched up with the valve, pushed the RCV in and rotated it back until the screw holes lined up.- Once lined up I hand threaded the top front and back screws. Make sure the 10mm is in the front and the 9mm is in the back. Take your ratchet and drive the screws in but not all the way.- Drive in the bottom 10mm screw- Tighten all screws- Install wire harness plug. The tab on my new one didn't clip in easy. I even clipped it on the old one real quick and it easily clipped on the old one, so use that screwdriver to push the tab clip up.CLEANUP:- Reinstall filter housing, air hose, vacuum hose and MAF sensor or clip- Start car and then drive around. Mine idled normally right away and was a big difference. If your code doesn't clear just wait about 50 miles and then it'll clear up or use an ODBII device to clear the code and see if it comes back.BACKGROUND: After some internet searches and a youtube video I found out the issue was the runner control valve. I tried to home-remedy the OEM one on the car by taking it off, applying some WD-40, letting it sit and then move around the valve (as instructed by a video) and then reinstalling the OEM part back on the car. The code cleared for a couple weeks but then came back and so did the idle issue. I bought this Dorman 911-902 off of amazon because the same one from Auto Zone was over $110 and wouldn't arrive as fast. Amazon got it to me in two days. FIVE STARS FOR SHIPPING AND PRICE!Dorman has a limited lifetime warranty on all their products. This device worked fine right from the start and I have no codes from this issue anymore. Here is a copy/paste from their website on their warranty:"DORMAN LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTYAt Dorman, we take pride in the quality of our products, and your satisfaction with their performance. Thus, Dorman warrants its products to be free from defects in material and workmanship under normal use and service. As your exclusive remedy, Dorman will replace free of charge any Dorman product that in Dorman's reasonable determination does not comply with the foregoing warranty. This warranty is voided by non-recommended use, improper installation, or physical damage. In addition, Dorman will not be liable for any incidental or consequential damages and your exclusive remedy shall be replacement of the product that did not comply with this limited warranty."FIVE STARS FOR THE OEM REPLACEMENT AND LIFETIME WARRANTY!Hopefully this review helps you out. If you got a P2017 code and experiencing the same issues I did then try the home remedy first and then buy this product. It functions similar or better than OEM parts and has a limited lifetime warranty. If you got a dud just remember that it can happen with any replacement part even an OEM part.

Check engine light was throwing a code about the intake runner manifold position switch on our '08 Avenger.Got this in two days and installed very easily (removed main air intake hose and then the three bolts that hold unit on). After about 30 miles the engine light shut off and has not returned for over 300 miles now. I expect the little gears in this small motor just got stripped over time as a small whine could be heard from the old one before replacing (turn key all the way to on without starting and go under the hood and listen quietly).Same exact part that came off the car, so not a cheap aftermarket part. I would recommend trying this fix if you have the same issue.

My check engine light came on and right before my tags were getting ready to expire. Auto zone and my local body shop gave me code p2017 with a quote of up to $700 to repair plus the $104 to diagnosis the issue. Apparently I would either have to replace the intake manifold or this part. (Dodge 2008 avenger se) I figured I couldn't lose with the price of this part and the research I found states it was easy to replace. Especially since my car was not giving me any trouble IE "running rough / trouble when starting" as thats what the mechanic asked me. After putting in the part my check engine light went off about 40 miles of driving- I drove for 10 turned off my car to run into the store drove 30 miles to work and when I turned it on again it was off!!!

I do a lot of my own vehicle repair. My Dodge Caliper was losing pickup and mileage. The "check engine light" was on, as well. So I go to the codes:2004 and 2017. The most direct repair was the control valve. It is a motor that opens and closes the air intake for the engine. So I bought one. It arrived as promised and was a perfect fit on the engine. And it worked. However, the problem wasn't that simply solved. $700 dollars later I had a new intake manifold as well as a control valve. Problem solved. I still trust this part and never want to have to buy it again, although I would.

I had no idea my 2008 Sebring had an intake manifold runner control valve -- till one night the engine light came on. Next day I got my oil change man to read the computer code. Mike showed me the part on the engine and it looked like I could change it. Went to the parts store -- they had to get under the hood to see the part, then located a part number. It would cost $124 and be there in 3 days. I said no thanks. Took the part number to the computer. Most sites said that part did not fit my car -- but it was the exact same part. So I ordered it for $85. It came in 4 days. I installed it. Light's off, seems to function perfectly. I sit here pretty pleased with myself that I have saved perhaps $200 by not taking the car to a dealer

I installed this on my 2008 Jeep Patriot after the Check Engine Light came on with the code P2017. This did not solve the problem and according to the Chrysler dealership, this part corrupted my PCM and that had to be replaced as well to the tune of $700 bucks. I don't know if that is true or not, but at no point could I get this part to work properly with my vehicle.Now, people on the internets have had this part installed and got it to work, but it required a trip to the dealership to have the ECU re-flashed. That's what I went to the dealership to do, but they said that this part was causing problems with the PCM. I'm no mechanic so all I can do is take their word for it.