Dorman 740-298 Front Driver Side Power Window Regulator (Regulator Only) Compatible with Select Hyundai Models

Hyundai tiburón 2000.. perfecto.

Good quality product

Perfect fit. The window works perfectly, no shaking or rattling when it ogs up or down.

Perfect fit for my 2000 hyundai tiburon I've had this for a while now and my window still works!

Perfect fit , worked great.

Straight forward installation , works like a charm

Met my expectations and worked flawlessly

It was easy to install, needed a had holding the window in position. The part that sucks is that it was manufactured in such a crappy way to start off with and no replacement parts were made. I eMailed them and they said so. The cable housing stop broke and everything got chewed up on the wheel. Still $73 was a bargain compared to the $240 the dealer wanted for the exact same part! Dorman should be ashamed to make stuff so crappy!

A "window regulator" is the mechanism that moves a power window on a car up and down. I replaced the window regulator for the driver's power window on a 2000 Hyundai Tiburon using this part. The part appears identical to the OEM part and, for those who care, it says it's made in Korea, not China. No installation directions are included with the part.This part does not include the power window motor. You can remove the motor from the old regulator and reuse it on this part.People who buy this part should be aware that the OEM design is fragile. (You can find much material on the web complaining about the failure of Hyundai window regulators.) The window in the car had jammed open because the cable of the window regulator had slipped off a guide pulley was all tangled up around the drive pulley. There are two guide pulleys. The cable is kept against each guide pulley by a pair of plastic tabs that are about 3/32 of an inch inch in all 3 dimensions. One broken part of the old regulator was one of these tabs. Another broken part was the plastic cylinder on the end of the cable that connects to the slide that fits into the channel. I don't know of any clever way to reinforce these parts on the new regulator. (Anyone who does know, please add a comment to this review.)Replacing the regulator requires removing the inside door panel. Roughly speaking, this involves removing 2 screws on the rear side of the panel, 3 screws on the bottom of the panel, 4 pop-out connectors along the bottom of the door (one of these is roughly at the rear corner), two screws behind covers on the interior door handle ( you need a large Phillips bit for this), the shell around the manual door lock (remove one machine screw, it has a non-tapered end.) I also removed the interior garnish around the side mirror, although I'm not sure that was necessary. (I pried it off. It was held stubbornly by two plastic tabs.) You must remove are several other screws on the face of the panel that I don't remember well enough to describe. The top of the panel fits over a ridge of metal at the top of the door so it must be lifted up to clear it. Two electrical connectors to the control switches on the panel must be detached to get the panel completely free of the door.On an undisturbed door there will be plastic film over the metal part of the door. This must be removed. (I don't know how do this non-destructively.) The regulator is held inside the door by 12 mm nuts that face you once the plastic is removed. There are 3 near the bottom of the channel, two near the top and 3 around the motor area. The window is held to the regulator by 3 bolts with 12 mm heads near the bottom of the window. I removed those bolts. My friend held the window in the up position. I had to pivot the old regulator within the door, slide the top down and the bottom up to get it out. I moved the window motor to the new regulator (3 screws involved as I recall). Then I wrestled the new regulator into the door.The attachment involving 3 bolts at the bottom of the window allows some adjustment in the position the window and you must use this assure that the window seats correctly when it is in the up position. The box of control switches can be popped out of the panel. It is held by plastic tabs. You can temporarily connect the control box to electrical connectors on the door and test the window without putting the door panel back on.I rate this product as 4 stars out of five to indicate that it is an OEM or almost exact duplicate of the OEM part. However, the consumer should be aware that the OEM design is frail.I hope that anyone who has additions or corrections to my information will add a comment to this review. I also would like to know if there are any aftermarket window regulators that are better than the OEM.