Although I have not yet begun to put these tubes to the ultimate test, I seriously look forward ard to them both performing every last bit to the standards by which people have expected them to perform at.

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The product installed just like the OEM version at a fraction of the cost. Seems to work perfectly.

This kit will be better if they add the hose installation clamp, the yellow plastic brick that will hold the hose while you hammer the pin inside the hose. But this item is as described and does work well. As long as you know how to install these, it should be fine.

Got a new frame and had to route a longer hose to the rear brake. This is a perfect replacement and has held up well. Would definitely purchase again.

Long enough for both front & rear brake lines . . .Easy to make 90 degree cuts . . .Easy to insert and seat barbs, and ferrules (olives) . . .Line ends seat perfectly . . .With replacement brake pads, brake lever travel is minimal with very good braking control.

Doesn’t work with Tektro Auriga brakes. The tube diameter is too thin. As result it pops out during hard braking. Not good.But the product is good - if it fits your brakes. Double check before installing.

Spend a little more money and buy genuine Shimano housing. The brass inserts do not fit inside this housing and the outer black casing of the housing cracks very easily under pressure. I wouldn’t install this housing on my worst enemy’s bike. I should have know better than to buy this garbage, but I was in a hurry and needed the prime shipping. I was also a bike mechanic in a very successful bike shop for 6 years so I know what I’m talking about.

This is the larger bore tubing that was used on my R&M bike, even though the smaller diameter was specified for my brakes. IMO the larger bore is better because there is less laminar flow drag and the fluid DOES move in doing work. This tubing has held up well, was easy to use and the extra length is ideal for the required extension due to replacing my short handlebar with a more ergonomic cruiser style. One length is enough for the entire job. I used the new tubing for the rear brake and replaced the front brake tubing with the older rear brake tubing. That way, I only had to discard the original front tubing. The 5 olives and brass inserts were enough to do the job nicely.You don't need a special clamp to seat the inserts. Just make sure that your cut is square, then place a wooden clothespin on the tubing allowing enough room for the brass insert to seat. Next, clamp the clothespin in a bench vise and tighten it enough to prevent slippage. Hold the brass insert in a pair of long-nose pliers, dip your insert in a little mineral oil and position the pointy end into the tubing bore. Now, here is the secret. You need to give the flat end of the insert a good swift smack with some non-metallic object that you can easily accelerate. I used a hardwood tool handle that I had. You can use anything that works as a light mallet, a hammer handle, the handle of a screwdriver, a wooden dowel, whatever. The object is to deliver a short, fast blow to the insert with an instrument that will not mar the brass. Once the insert is started into the tubing, a few repeated strikes will drive it home. If your tubing slips a little, just loosen the vise, reposition the tubing, retighten the vise, and have at it!Don't try to push the insert into the tubing, that's the hard way to do it! Sharp, taps will do the job, and DON'T use a tack hammer, you'll just muck up the insert and bend the tubing.Oh, and if you have internal routing in your bike frame and need to pull the new tubing through, simply attach the new tubing to the old by cutting the insert end off the old tubing and threading a short length of de-headed sheet metal screw into the two matching ends. Now PUSH the new tubing so that the old tubing is forced out. This avoids having to PULL the new tubing with the old and possibly having them part company somewhere in the deep, dark recesses of your inner bike frame. Prevention is a lot easier than cure.Bleeding Shimano brakes is a no-brainer. Read the directions, and then take a little time to get the bubbles out. Unless you're inherently sloppy, you don't need to remove the pads, and those cotter pins need to be replaced, not reused so, why bother? Also, the syringe they give you is probably junk. 10cc is enough capacity for a single-wheel, complete fill and flush. Test it first, and if it doesn't slide smoothly, buy a new one. After one session, you're an expert and you can overcharge your friends, just like the local bike shop.Life happens! If you're not having fun, whose fault is that?