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Your cart is empty. Replace the excessive bulk and weight of the stock system and substantially increase horsepower and torque
Utilize the exclusive Vance & Hines Power Chamber
The Power Chamber is a unique crossover system that offersall the performance advantages of a 2-into-1 race system yet retains the intimidating look of drag pipes
Feature massive 21/2in. full coverage heat shields that make them virtually blue-proof
All Big Shots have the traditional Vance & Hines amenities:removable baffles and complete mounting hardware with easy-to-understand installation instructions
Jet
Reviewed in the United States on March 13, 2024
the power lost verse the the reduced d.b. is a bad exchange
R. Corkran
Reviewed in the United States on May 29, 2014
First off, I purchased these, (you need to order two, they are priced ‘per each’), to replace the stock baffles in the set of Straightshot HS Slip-ons (V&H model #16863) that I installed on my 2014, 1200t.Second thing, as the mufflers were already installed I removed them for the install, it was just easier.I have a fairly high mechanical knowledge and figure that on a scale of 1 – 5 (1 = easy, 5 = hard) these were a 3, as was the initial installation of the mufflers. Unlike the mufflers the baffles didn’t come with any instructions. This is a ‘fiddly’ job that takes a bit of patience. The most difficult part of the installation was getting the original baffles out and dealing with the fiberglass. If you are still interested read on.As I said above the first thing I did was remove the Straightshots by reversing the install instructions.Next I removed the retaining screw for the baffles and set them aside for later as the new ones didn’t come with any.I then installed a ¼-20 x ¾” screw in the retaining nut welded to the inside of the baffle. This is done from the inside; be sure to leave clearance between the end of the screw and the inside of muffler.At this point I used a dent puller with a hook to pop out the original baffles. It doesn’t take a lot of effort but they are in pretty tight and knocking them out from the other end seemed ill-advised.When installing the new baffles be sure to line up the retaining nut with the hole in the muffler, it’s a pain if you have to rotate it after it is installed. The new baffles come wrapped in fiberglass and there is a piece of tape holding it on. I left this tape in place until the edge of the fiberglass was under the edge of the muffler. I inserted the new baffles slowly and used a medium width flat bladed screw driver to push the fiberglass in as I was inserting the baffle. This worked well.Once the baffle is in place line up the retaining nut on the baffle with the hole in the muffler and use one of the screws you removed from the old baffles to secure the new ones in place. I put a small amount of blue, 242 LocTite on the threads of the retaining screw and tightened it ‘hand-tight’.After the baffles were in the mufflers I reinstalled them and fired it up.WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Instead of ‘in-your-face-loud’ they now have that classic glass-pack quality and sound really good.
JBrophy
Reviewed in the United States on May 2, 2014
At about $37 each you will need two of these and mine didn't come with screws so I had to go to the local hardware store to get them. I have V&H Big Shots Longs and had to remove my old straight thru baffles first. The old screw were too rusted to easily get out and I had to use a dremel to cut them partially thru so I could bend up the head and use pliers to turn them out. Then I sprayed in a liberal amount of rust breaker in and around the old baffles since they were in there pretty solid and waited a day. Then I put the old screws in from the other side from inside the pipe to use as a pull point to get the old baffles out. I used a solid wire hanger and slipped the end around the screw and put a piece of 2x4 in the big loop and used a hammer to bang them out, it worked pretty good. The new ones are very tight, so you will have to tape down the fiberglass to the ends (this will burn off) and you will have to twist in the baffle so the fiberglass doesn't bunch up too much. Do not just punch straight in, you will bunch up the fiberglass and it will probably be difficult to get the baffle all the way in properly. Line up the hole for the screw being careful not to go too deep in the baffle, if you do and have to back the baffle out use the old screw like when taking the baffle out. Don't use a new screw for this since you could damage the threads. Once you have the baffles in you should notice a deeper but still loud output. Because these baffles have a capped end and make the air stop and then push up around the end to get into the baffle they create more back pressure which will improve your torque some and you should notice a bit more pep off the line and with acceleration while riding. You may need to still adjust your carburetor if you experience deceleration popping, but because of the end cap, you might notice it less. I am glad I got these baffles but the term "Quiet" is a bit misleading, they should be named "Richer Sound" Baffle.
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